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Search for "challenge coins"
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
Joe
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden >>>> "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?
hth,
bob prohaska
I forgot the other question, so my second question is what question (or
questions) did I forget to ask? Maybe what alloy would best? I suspect
an annealed copper alloy of some kind. Many an amusement facility used
to have a machine that would take your penny (and a dollar) and roll
your penny into a souvenir key tag back in the days when pennies were
still copper.
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden >>> "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which >usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 11/27/2024 4:12 PM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?
I don't think we have any local manufacturers generating that kind of
waste.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:12 PM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
Maybe ask non-ferrous scrap buyers if they'll sell knockouts
(donut holes) from punched parts for a little over scrap price?
I don't think we have any local manufacturers generating that kind of
waste.
I was thinking that finding the generator of the scrap would be hard,
but finding dealers who might resell would be easier. There used to be
a few businesses that sold industrial surplus and offcuts for re-use,
but I can't find anything of the kind now. Admittedly I haven't looked
in at least a decade. The world has changed a lot in the past few years.
I expected non-local, but it looks like non-existent is the rule.
Sorry for the bum steer,
bob prohaska
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden >>>>> "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour press. Cycle time is slow
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden >>>>> "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--Or find someone with an ironworker you can borrow or rent time on.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 16:33:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>The strippit was also used as an embossing press IIRC
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:Or find someone with an ironworker you can borrow or rent time on.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which >>>> usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a >>>> good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly >>>> do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the >>>> older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies >>>> stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and >>>> money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads. >>>>
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with >>one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Need to modify the standard ironworker punch by grinding off the "nib"
or you will need to press out the "dimple"
I can't remember the name of the machine several local fabricators
used - for punching, notching, pressing louvers,etc.
With a square punch they could basically "nibble" slots in angle iron
or plate or notch corners in sheet or plate. I think it was called a >"strippit"?. It could punch 1 1/2 inch holes in 3/16" mild steel or
stainless all day. The old ones were mechanical flywheel punches then
they switched to hydraulics. The one mechanical one I was familiar
with was made about 1969 and was still punching away in the early
2000s. The secret was to pretend the 30 or 40 ton press was only a 20
and it would last forever.
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a
couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a
propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden >>>>> "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a
good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly
do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies
stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and
money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads.
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 16:33:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:The old-time answer to this is a Fly Press, which are still used.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper, >>> or brass flat stock on a punch press.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which >>>> usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a >>>> good idea.
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will hardenMany country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly >>>> do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the >>>> older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies >>>> stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and >>>> money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads. >>>>
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
Joe
On 28/11/2024 16:00, Joe Gwinn wrote:[snip]
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 16:33:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this. >>> Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of myDo your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper, >>>> or brass flat stock on a punch press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with >>> one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
The old-time answer to this is a Fly Press, which are still used.
Joe
I was going to suggest one also but as I understand it they're not that >common in the US, here in the UK they're quite common.
I have one and
use it from time to time to punch copper blanks for enamelling, I set-up
the tooling so I can quickly punch the blanks one after another from a
copper strip. For the coin stamping I was thinking of a drop stamp. An
image here <https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5757303> from the Birmingham >Jewellery Quarter Museum, formerly Smith and Pepper ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_and_Pepper>. Having toured the
museum I didn't see those drop stamps, they're the small ones, but I saw
a large one maybe 15' (4.5m) highá and IIRC the side guides were railway >track but I can't find an image of it.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 16:33:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum, copper, >>> or brass flat stock on a punch press.
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a >>>>>> heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back of >>>>>> my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the dies. >>>>>> 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand for those >>>>>> cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering
(although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on Ebay >>>>>> or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product which >>>> usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a >>>> good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly >>>> do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out the >>>> older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies >>>> stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly for a >>>> coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option,
but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and >>>> money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane
forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth while. Its >>>> fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting
any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they still >>>> in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could
read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads. >>>>
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this.
Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with
one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour press. Cycle time is slow
doing onezies ---
"Peter Fairbrother" wrote in message news:vi96p6$em69$1@dont-email.me... ...
Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother
-------------------------------
I wonder if the stamping operation would adequately flatten blanks cut
with a Greenlee punch, guided to not need the center screw. They cut a
larger blank with less force than flat-faced punches. The points could
be rounded as much as the press allows to reduce distortion.
One company shop had a bench press that located and clamped the lower
die between four horizontal setscrews. The punch fit into a round hole
in the ram, the square-sided die had two beveled edges for the
setscrews. At first it was difficult for me to align but it was very versatile and could punch the square and D shapes needed in electronics.
The punch had a slight taper above the parallel section which would hold
the die centered while I adjusted the setscrews. If I had to convert an
arbor press that might be an easy way to fixture a die that could be
hardened and then surface ground. The Lindsay book on making punches and
dies suggests making and hardening the punch first, then using it to
finish the die before hardening it.
On 27/11/2024 20:57, Bob La Londe wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop
a heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back
of my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the
dies. 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it
will harden "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few
hundred to a couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on
hand for those cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide.
I even have a propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for
tempering (although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on
Ebay or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother
On 11/27/2024 8:51 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 16:33:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:55:48 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/27/2024 3:29 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:Do your own "fineblanking" - stamp your blanks from aluminum,
On Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:57:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> >>>>>> wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance >>>>>>> fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and >>>>>>> drop a
heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the
back of
my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make
the dies.
4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it >>>>>>> will harden
"hard enough" for a low production number of from a few hundred to a >>>>>>> couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1 on hand
for those
cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or carbide. I even have a >>>>>>> propane forge in the back along with a toaster oven for tempering >>>>>>> (although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 >>>>>>> on Ebay
or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Many country fair coins were made of soft aluminum.
Maybe the brass sold for stamped dataplates or tags?
.<https://identificationtags.com/product/brass-blank-round-tags-
with-no-holes/>
That's not a bad start. Unfortunately they also sell end product
which
usually means they don't sell for real wholesale pricing. Its still a >>>>> good idea.
Probably the alloy used for copper pennys can be got.
Getting actual penny copper is not a horrible idea. I could certainly >>>>> do some experiments by going through my change bowl and sorting out
the
older real copper pennies to be restamped. I suppose the zinc pennies >>>>> stamp okay, but they may not re-stamp okay. My end goal is mostly
for a
coin "about" the diameter and thickness of a regular classic silver
dollar.
Casting copper from old pennies, motors, etc could also be an option, >>>>> but that would make it a whole different class of project. A time and >>>>> money thing, and I don't mean the pennies. Also, my little propane >>>>> forge probably isn't up to melting enough copper to be worth
while. Its
fine for one off heat treating projects, but probably not for casting >>>>> any quantity.
Hobby stores may have coin-making supplies.
Hmmmmm... I suppose its worth a look to see if Michael's (are they
still
in business) or Hobby Lobby has anything. At the very least I could >>>>> read the packaging if they do to see if that generates an other leads. >>>>>
Early Chinese coins were lost-wax cast from bronze.
I don't think casting is really the way I want to go.
Joe
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
copper,
or brass flat stock on a punch press.
I design some punch dies years ago. Hadn't even considered it for this. >>> Its an option, but a big fancy punch press is probably out of my
budget. I'll have to calculate the shear and see if it can be done with >>> one of my shop presses or perhaps an improvise drop weight press.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
Shop press will do it. Even a good arbour press. Cycle time is slow
doing onezies ---
I am aware that it will depend on die design. I have a 6 ton arbor
press, and I think I would be hesitant to think it would manage a fairly detailed die impression, but I have used it for lots of other things including punching round holes in thin sheet metal. I've also got a 12
ton and a 20 ton shop press. Both are air over hydraulic, and actually quite slow. In the field at the "faire" a drop hammer is used. a relatively crude one.
"...a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance fair (or faire if
you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop a heavy weight on it
to strike a souvenir coin..."
I think if I follow through with this I'll stick with a drop hammer or a
trip hammer until production required a faster process.
On 11/28/2024 12:40 AM, Peter Fairbrother wrote:
On 27/11/2024 20:57, Bob La Londe wrote:
Every since watching a woman dressed in pirate garb at a renaissance
fair (or faire if you prefer) place a blank in a set of dies and drop
a heavy weight on it to strike a souvenir coin I have had in the back
of my mind the idea to strike my own coins. I can certainly make the
dies. 4140 is relatively easy to machine if you know how, and it
will harden "hard enough" for a low production number of from a few
hundred to a couple thousand coins. I also keep a bit of O1 and W1
on hand for those cutting tools I can't hand grind from HSS or
carbide. I even have a propane forge in the back along with a toaster
oven for tempering (although it gets used more for powder coating).
I started writing with two questions in mind.
Where to buy/make coin blanks at the best price? Not the 10-20 on
Ebay or Amazon, but a couple hundred to a couple thousand at a more
reasonable bulk price.
Ouch, At those prices it would be cheaper to use real money...
Peter Fairbrother
... and at those prices almost exclusively shipped from China.