| Sysop: | Amessyroom |
|---|---|
| Location: | Fayetteville, NC |
| Users: | 43 |
| Nodes: | 6 (0 / 6) |
| Uptime: | 96:07:13 |
| Calls: | 290 |
| Files: | 904 |
| Messages: | 76,426 |
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vepf95$2e45q$1@dont-email.me...
Finished it up with a grinder. Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder." Well, now I just sharpen drills with a grinder. Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops. The only 11/16 drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it. I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck. (There were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.
After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.
All finished up. Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool. Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.
I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with. I probably should dress them more
often though.
Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder." Its not
even very hard once you've done a few. 3/16 and up is pretty easy. I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------
You'll know you are Really good when they drill to size. I can make a
dull or broken bit cut well but usually pass it through a Drill Doctor afterwards.
"Snag" wrote in message news:vepqs0$2jh1r$1@dont-email.me...
I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.
"Snag" wrote in message news:veq34c$2khi8$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/16/2024 10:37 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:vepqs0$2jh1r$1@dont-email.me...
I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.
I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .
Snag
------------------------------------
My larger bits are mostly S&D with 1/2" shanks, so I made a 5C collet tightening cap with a 1/2" alignment bushing to surface grind them in
the end mill fixture. I haven't yet dulled a bit larger than the 3/4"
the DD will accept to test it. Perhaps making it was good insurance I wouldn't need to use it.
The cap and its spanner wrench were small enough for the goodie bag I
took to job interviews to show I have mechanical as well as electronic skills, which helped get me into Segway. Being able to design and
machine what I wanted saved me from having to beg a mechanical
engineer's assistance and accept their idea of what the mainly
electronic problem required, they would make the often correct
assumption that an electronic tech knew nothing of mechanical design.
Mitre and Segway let me charge for time in my home shop.
On 10/16/2024 10:37 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:One saturday morning I found a half dozen bits over 1/2" for $2 each,
"Snag"á wrote in message news:vepqs0$2jh1r$1@dont-email.me...
á I'm happy if both flutes actually cut on a freehand grind . My DD
only has a collet for up to 1/2" so ...
Snag
-----------------------------------
I bought a separate DD 3/4" chuck which works in my 1/2" DD.
I considered it but I only have like 4 bits over 1/2" that I use and
those not all that often .
On 10/15/2024 5:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"á wrote in message news:vek97o$1c4gf$1@dont-email.me...
After drilling a giant hole int he bed of my new truck I decided I
wanted to hit the freshly raw aluminum surface with some metal etching
primer, and some black paint to match the black sprayed in bed liner and
protect the metal.
All my paint has been on the shelf a long time.á I wasn't able to break
the bearing inside the can loose on the lathe, but after I got it moving
I was able to chuck the spray can up cross wise in the six jaw chuck by
removing two opposed jaws.
I think taping the can to a long blade in the Super Sawzall is faster,
but I can walk away with the lathe on 70 RPM and work on something else
for 20 minutes when I chuck it in the lathe.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------
As a kid I made a rock tumbler consisting of a small windmill with a
wood pulley and string speed reduction to the paint can holder. It did a
fairly good job of scaring birds from Dad's garden as well. The blades
were crossed sticks with thin plastic or aluminum flashing rectangles
nailed on along one edge, so they self-feathered in strong winds.á It
lasted about 3 months between repairs.
Finished it up with a grinder. Many years ago, when this group was
thick with masters of all, I was a bit taken aback by all the folks who
would say, "I just freehand sharpen drills with a grinder." Well, now I
just sharpen drills with a grinder. Today I had to drill four holes in
the bed of the new truck for spring loaded chain loops. The only 11/16
drill bit I found looked like it had a poor shallow grind for wallowing
its way through steel truck frames... In fact I think that's what it was
last use for, and I'm sure I was the one who put that grind on it. I
walked it over to the grinder and put a sharp aggressive three facet
grind (6 if you want to be technical) on it for aluminum and punched the >holes I needed right through the stiffener and bed of the truck. (There
were already holes in the steel under bed goose neck ball hitch plate.
After that it was just the usual fat guy trying to work under a truck to
get the springs and nuts on the under side of the chain loops.
All finished up. Next project electric running boards so my wife can
get in and out of the truck safely without my having to run around the
truck with a step stool. Yeah, I keep a step stool in the bed right now.
I keep telling myself I'll get some nice CBN wheels for one of the
grinders so I can sharpen lathe bits, drills, and even split points all
on one machine and I still haven't completely worn out a set of the
cheap grey stones they come with. I probably should dress them more
often though.
Anyway now, "I just free hand sharpen drills on the grinder." Its not
even very hard once you've done a few. 3/16 and up is pretty easy. I
have sharpened smaller by swinging a magnifying lamp over the grinder,
but the smaller drills are so cheap I just buy them in batches.
--For fifty years I sharpened drills freehand on a variety of grinders
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
"Gerry" wrote in message
news:kpk3hj9jfrq2m2q0l5u5k984ut158a7t2b@4ax.com...
I totally broke Junior's FiL when he sent in a basket of bits for me
to sharpen - among them was a 1/2" concrete bit with the insert
missing. I sent it back nicely sharpened with a hole drilled through
the web and a tag wired to it saying "Drill shaped object - Use only
to make holes in room temperature butter"!
---------------------------
The most recent drill-shaped object I made was a small hole saw from
3/16" gas welding rod, to free the broken tip of a #1 center drill so I
could finish the #8-32 tap hole through the otherwise tediously
completed aluminum part. The filed teeth needed several resharpenings to
keep the chips flowing but it did the job.
The holes are for setscrews and pins that can push out pressed-in
bearings. The parts are bandsaw blade guide rollers similar to this, but minus the sawdust grooves because a scraper of aluminum flashing cleans
the blade ahead of them, and the blade back support is a separate
bearing on edge instead of the flange.
https://cookssaw.com/parts/roller-guides/
The prototype aluminum rollers wore enough that I made a steel pair. The blade runs at 50-60MPH which is hard on the guides and their bearings,
not far from the PV limit of a good bearing and beyond it for some cheap
ones from Amazon, or the smaller skate bearings I used before. The ball
cages break, pop the seals off and sawdust jams them or the balls fly
out. The saw keeps cutting but not as straight.
A safety pin (on my key chain) can remove the rubber seals or metal
shields from ball bearings to clean and grease them. Shields are
retained by a spring clip at the outer edge that the pin tip can catch
the inward beveled end of and pop it out of the groove. Both reinstall without tools after some practice.
When I changed phone carriers the clerk couldn't find his tool to
unlatch the SIM card and asked me if I had one (yeah, right). To his
surprise I handed him the safety pin which worked fine.
jsw