I bought a 7 x 12 Emerson new in 1982, and still run it. The first 10 years or so, I ran water soluble oil, or water based synthetic. Had to replace all the guide bearing about once a year. Then I cleaned it all up, and switched over to sulfurized
cutting oil, and have only replaced bearings one time since. --- Once, had to remove the driver band wheel, and slightly recut it in the lathe, because the band kept popping off. Great machine.

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On 8/25/2024 4:45 PM, OldManRT wrote:

I bought a 7 x 12 Emerson new in 1982, and still run it.  The first 10
years or so, I ran water soluble oil, or water based synthetic.  Had to replace all the guide bearing about once a year.  Then I cleaned it all
up, and switched over to sulfurized cutting oil, and have only replaced bearings one time since.  ---  Once, had to remove the driver band
wheel, and slightly recut it in the lathe, because the band kept popping off.   Great machine.

I honestly don't think you can screw up one of any of these old band
saws unless you are downright abusive. I've had a 7x12 from Harbor
Freight I've been using for years, and before that I had a Harbor
freight 4 x 6 I modified to cut 4 x 8 that I used for years before it
stripped a gear. I fixed the smaller one and I still use both of them
every week. The 7x12 just about every day. Sometimes I find myself
using them both at the same time. I use the little one mostly for
stainless and the bigger one for mild steel and aluminum.

Only problem I have anymore is I don't clean the chips off often enough,
and when the build up to a certain point the saw won't swing down all
the way. LOL.

Nice zombie thread by the way.



--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


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On 8/26/2024 4:16 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vagk30$25f4n$1@dont-email.me...

...I've had a 7x12 from Harbor
Freight I've been using for years, and before that I had a Harbor
freight 4 x 6 I modified to cut 4 x 8 that I used for years before it stripped a gear.  ...
-------------------------------------------
The 4x8 mod I made to my 4x6 is angle iron attached behind the fence,
which was milled parallel on the back edge so that pressing it against
the added angle quickly re-squares it after making angled cuts. Also I drilled extra holes that let the fence sit closer to the blade when
square, to clamp smaller work, and replaced the small wheels with larger
ones on an axle through the base. Being further apart they somewhat
increase its stability when I roll it outdoors over the door threshold
and down the sloping driveway.

The next pieces I expect to cut on it are 20' long. That job will
definitely happen outdoors , possibly back in the woods where the
timbers are stored.

The disadvantage of the 8" mod is loss of clearance for chips to escape
the blade before entering the guide rollers. That doesn't matter as much
when cutting wood. The widest I can clamp on the mill is 6-7/8" in the
drill press vise and a 1" parallel will add chip clearance to cut a
steel blank up to that size on the saw

I moved the original fence to a solid location for 8", and then made a
new fence for the regular position with a tooless screw/handle for angle
cuts. Most of the time I do not use the original fence in its new
locations. Maybe never since I got the 7x12 bandsaw for larger stock.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


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On 8/27/2024 3:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:val753$33ff9$1@dont-email.me...

I moved the original fence to a solid location for 8", and then made a
new fence for the regular position with a tooless screw/handle for angle cuts.  Most of the time I do not use the original fence in its new locations.  Maybe never since I got the 7x12 bandsaw for larger stock.

Bob La Londe

--------------------------------------

That sounds like a better approach. I kept the original fence and
changed only the fasteners, so it's still clumsy to adjust.

I'd buy a 7x12 if I had the space for it. I got the 4x6 for $125 and
it's a Delta with upgraded small parts compared to others I'd tried.
With mods and careful adjustment it has been accurate and large enough
for my metal projects and cuts a 6x6 timber neatly enough to leave the
end exposed. My hoisting gear helps it handle long and heavy stock.

It occurred to me that I do almost exclusively straight cuts with the
7x12. I may remove the swivel fence and install a fixed fence on it. It
can drift a little from closing forces as I crank a big heavy piece of
metal into alignment with the jaws. No, its not always easy to just lay
it down straight in the first place. The last time I made any
deliberate angled cuts was for brace pieces on a welding table my son
and I built a few years ago. If I do need to make more 45 degree angled
brace pieces (I will I hope) for work benches I can cut those small
pieces on the 4x6-8. It would also be nice to have a small out feed
table with a work stop. Something better than the rod and stop it came
with and I long since misplaced. Maybe a swing a way out feed table so
I don't bark my shins on it when not in use.

Pasks Makes on YouTube did a bunch of "fixes" to his 4x6 in a video with
some great tips a while back. Another useful one for me might be to
make a table that clamps into the vise for using the saw in a vertical position, and just get rid of my vertical bandsaw that doesn't have
enough torque at steel cutting SFM anyway.

I use the horizontals as verticals regularly, but I only use the
vertical for wood, plastic, and sometimes aluminum. Never for steel.
Well, I have, but its pretty disappointing.




--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


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Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

On 8/27/2024 3:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"á wrote in message news:val753$33ff9$1@dont-email.me...

I moved the original fence to a solid location for 8", and then made a
new fence for the regular position with a tooless screw/handle for angle >>> cuts.á Most of the time I do not use the original fence in its new
locations.á Maybe never since I got the 7x12 bandsaw for larger stock.

...

That sounds like a better approach. I kept the original fence and
changed only the fasteners, so it's still clumsy to adjust.

...

It occurred to me that I do almost exclusively straight cuts with the
7x12. I may remove the swivel fence and install a fixed fence on it. It
can drift a little from closing forces [...]

On my 4x6 bandsaw, I replaced both parts of the "vise" (the swivel
fence with one fixed bolt and one bolt in a quarter-circle slot, and
the short screw-driven fence that pivots on one bolt) with taller,
longer pieces of 2x3x1/4" angle, making both pieces the same except
for corner cutouts for clearance for the back blade guide. The extra
inch or so of height helps with tall thin stock, as well as making it
easier to add C-clamps for tighter clamping when needed.

Pasks Makes on YouTube did a bunch of "fixes" to his 4x6 in a video with
some great tips a while back. Another useful one for me might be to
make a table that clamps into the vise for using the saw in a vertical position, and just get rid of my vertical bandsaw that doesn't have
enough torque at steel cutting SFM anyway.

A table that clamps into the vise does sound easy and useful!

When I first got my 4x6 (ca 2001?) I occasionally installed the
"Vertical Cutting Table" but messing around with that changeover soon
got old and I installed a smaller table that stays on all the time,
horizontal or vertical. Important dimensions are table length in
front of the blade, and table extension to the left of the blade. If
either size is too big, the table hits the frame before the saw is all
the way down when horizontal sawing. Anyhow, in 1/8" steel plate* I
drilled and countersunk 3 holes for the mounting screws**, and cut a
slot for blade changing and for blade clearance when sawing.***

*About 84 mm wide, 117 mm long, both of which can be enlarged if
desired. **Two holes each 60 mm from front edge, at 16.3 and 60 from
left edge; one each 103 mm from front edge, 56.5 from left edge. ***
0.7 mm slot parallel to left edge and 36.5 mm from it; running 43 from
front edge, with last 14 mm of slot widened to ~3 mm.

A small table like this also could have one or two holes (threaded or
plain) for supporting an edge of a vise-mounted table as used for
more-accurate work or larger workpieces.

I use the horizontals as verticals regularly, but I only use the
vertical for wood, plastic, and sometimes aluminum. Never for steel.
Well, I have, but its pretty disappointing.

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