• Anybody Seen a Simple LED "Fail-Over" Circuit ?

    From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 26 02:24:12 2024
    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Consider traffic lights, warning lights, similar.

    It's not as simple as dividing the drive current
    in half because LED brightness is not strictly
    linear to the current.

    Searches really don't bring up much here.

    Yea, there are more complex solutions ... but
    what can be done with the fewest, simplest,
    most robust parts ?

    Not strictly Linux, but we DO sometimes wanna
    drive external displays. Usenet electronics
    groups ... dismal at this point.

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO
    fail - but for some safety apps you can't
    just HAVE things go black.

    --
    033-33

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to 186282@ud0s4.net on Tue Nov 26 08:40:25 2024
    On Tue, 26 Nov 2024 02:24:12 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Complicated question. For a complete catastrophic failure where the LED is either open or shorted a couple of transistors might do it. Even that
    would be difficult if a PWM dimmer is used.

    Even worse the degradation may be light output and/or color rather than a simple go / no go.

    Then you get into the human part of the equation:

    https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/light/visible-light

    I'd actually been playing with PWM output in a Pico with C. The Uno piles
    a lot of sugar on it with analogWrite rather than the Pico SDK
    hardware_pwn

    https://cec-code-lab.aps.edu/robotics/resources/pico-c-api/ group__hardware__pwm.html

    I've got to play with it a little more but simply incrementing the duty
    cycle isn't too smooth perceptually.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bernd Froehlich@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 26 09:00:48 2024
    On 26. Nov 2024 at 08:24:12 CET, "186283@ud0s4.net" <186283@ud0s4.net>
    wrote:

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO
    fail - but for some safety apps you can't
    just HAVE things go black.

    Hmm, just a thought:
    If I understood the problem correctly, you want the LED to show some
    failstate, right?

    What if you switch the LED on when everything is fine and off would signal
    a fail?

    If the LED is off then you know it´s either a fail or the LED is broken. Either way you have to do something.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rich@21:1/5 to 186282@ud0s4.net on Tue Nov 26 13:34:36 2024
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Consider traffic lights, warning lights, similar.

    It's not as simple as dividing the drive current in half because LED brightness is not strictly linear to the current.

    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Searches really don't bring up much here.

    Yea, there are more complex solutions ... but what can be done with
    the fewest, simplest, most robust parts ?

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two....

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate,
    because it does not depend upon the first one.

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    Not strictly Linux, but we DO sometimes wanna drive external
    displays. Usenet electronics groups ... dismal at this point.

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO fail - but for some
    safety apps you can't just HAVE things go black.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find they
    do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will need
    more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.


    [1] redundant PSU's are a different matter

    [2] And they are being driven hard because the Shenzen engineer
    optimized for lowest BOM cost posible without regard to lifespan of the
    device.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Computer Nerd Kev@21:1/5 to Rich on Wed Nov 27 08:21:32 2024
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Searches really don't bring up much here.

    Yea, there are more complex solutions ... but what can be done with
    the fewest, simplest, most robust parts ?

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two....

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate, because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Unless the driver chip fails short-circuit, causing the PSU to shut
    down power to both drivers.

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    If the PSU has regulated voltage output, or LED brightness can vary
    with the supply voltage (such as from a battery), then a resistor
    would do instead of the LED drivers.

    Not strictly Linux, but we DO sometimes wanna drive external
    displays. Usenet electronics groups ... dismal at this point.

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO fail - but for some
    safety apps you can't just HAVE things go black.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find they
    do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will need
    more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.

    Or use high-brightness LEDs where low-brightness ones would
    normally be sufficient at their maximum current.

    But unless there's something specific that makes these LEDs more
    likely to go wrong, I'd expect the drive circuitry and wiring to
    be as common a point of failure as the LEDs themselves. To detect open-circuit/short-circuit, you could pass a small current through
    them and use that to tell whether the LED is OK (current is correct
    for the LED's forward voltage drop specification), triggering a
    single bulb-failure warning if it's not (possibly simpler in
    practice than duplicating every LED on a display panel, even if
    the total number of components is similar).

    --
    __ __
    #_ < |\| |< _#

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rich@21:1/5 to Computer Nerd Kev on Wed Nov 27 01:26:27 2024
    Computer Nerd Kev <not@telling.you.invalid> wrote:
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Searches really don't bring up much here.

    Yea, there are more complex solutions ... but what can be done with
    the fewest, simplest, most robust parts ?

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two....

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source >> (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate,
    because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Unless the driver chip fails short-circuit, causing the PSU to shut
    down power to both drivers.

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two.....

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    If the PSU has regulated voltage output, or LED brightness can vary
    with the supply voltage (such as from a battery), then a resistor
    would do instead of the LED drivers.

    Yes, and you still have the same potential for a possible "fail short"
    with a current limiting resistor, which would then drive that led with
    too much current. And if it happens to fail short when overdriven too
    much, you are back to your 'fail short' for the "drivers".

    Not strictly Linux, but we DO sometimes wanna drive external
    displays. Usenet electronics groups ... dismal at this point.

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO fail - but for some
    safety apps you can't just HAVE things go black.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find they
    do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will need
    more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.

    Or use high-brightness LEDs where low-brightness ones would
    normally be sufficient at their maximum current.

    Or, the meaning of "derate" when doing component selection.

    But unless there's something specific that makes these LEDs more
    likely to go wrong,

    Over driving them too hard, and insufficient heat dissipation for
    whatever drive level you choose for them, are by far the big two
    reasons for them to go wrong. Must every other failure will either be
    infant mortality or very very rare occurrence possibilities.

    And, note, there is a huge overlap in "over drive" and "insufficient
    heat sinking" such that over driven LED's are often also insufficiently
    heat sinked for the actual amount of heat the driving will generate.

    If you don't try to squeeze every last ounce of "performance" out of a
    given LED, and you adequately remove the waste heat, they will (at
    least everything but Shenzen junk) last nearly forever.

    I'd expect the drive circuitry and wiring to be as common a point of
    failure as the LEDs themselves. To detect
    open-circuit/short-circuit, you could pass a small current through
    them and use that to tell whether the LED is OK (current is correct
    for the LED's forward voltage drop specification), triggering a
    single bulb-failure warning if it's not (possibly simpler in practice
    than duplicating every LED on a display panel, even if the total
    number of components is similar).

    Yes, you could design a "detector" that could detect open/short for the
    LED and/or its driver. But then that means you've excluded "fewest
    parts" (at least) from the design selection criteria. And, depending
    upon how 'robust' you really need to be, you'd need to detect failures
    of the detection circuitry itself as well.

    Another commenter's statement of inverting the indicator, where "on"
    means "situation normal" and "off" means "abnormal" is probably the
    absolute simplest way to go. But then the "LED indicator" fights human psychology that senses a new stimuli appearing in the environment (lamp
    turning on) far more readily and quickly than noticing that a continual
    low level stimuli has disappeared (light has gone out).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Nov 27 00:05:02 2024
    On 11/26/24 3:40 AM, rbowman wrote:
    On Tue, 26 Nov 2024 02:24:12 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Complicated question. For a complete catastrophic failure where the LED is either open or shorted a couple of transistors might do it. Even that
    would be difficult if a PWM dimmer is used.

    I can kinda think of a few multi-transistor solutions, but
    was hoping for a one-transistor or no-transistor fix. The
    more trans/diodes you have to go thru the more the voltage
    drop.

    Even worse the degradation may be light output and/or color rather than a simple go / no go.

    Then you get into the human part of the equation:

    https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/light/visible-light

    I'd actually been playing with PWM output in a Pico with C. The Uno piles
    a lot of sugar on it with analogWrite rather than the Pico SDK
    hardware_pwn

    https://cec-code-lab.aps.edu/robotics/resources/pico-c-api/ group__hardware__pwm.html

    I've got to play with it a little more but simply incrementing the duty
    cycle isn't too smooth perceptually.

    Ah, I know that one ... mostly due to internal capacitance,
    esp in 'consumer-grade' LEDS, the devices may not 'saturate'
    from very brief pulses. So, your 5% PWM pulse doesn't look
    like 5% to the device while your 95% pulse does. The
    advertised color assumes 100% saturation at the spec voltage
    and current levels.

    Two and a half "easy" fixes :

    Decrease your PWM base frequency - maybe down to 100hz or
    even 60hz. This gives even the short pulses a chance to
    saturate the device.

    Or ... bring the device ALMOST up to emission threshold.
    Alas this takes a voltage-divider and maybe a diode. The
    idea is that you put static DC potential on the thing -
    like 2.0 volts for a 2.3 volt device. The amps do not have
    to be very much at all. Thus 'primed' they will be more
    responsive.

    LEDs used for like fiber-optic links are engineered to
    have lower capacitance plus a few other tweaks to make
    them respond faster. That they're generally driven
    binary at 0% or 100% for such uses also helps.

    Another ugly trick can be to just intentionally add
    more capacitance - a tiny cap - so your PWM does not
    really directly drive the LED but can instead be seen
    as just charging the cap. The leftover voltage in the
    cap will kinda keep the LED near threshold, as mentioned
    above (gotta match the cap to the PWM freq).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Computer Nerd Kev@21:1/5 to Rich on Wed Nov 27 15:12:14 2024
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:
    Computer Nerd Kev <not@telling.you.invalid> wrote:
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate,
    because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Unless the driver chip fails short-circuit, causing the PSU to shut
    down power to both drivers.

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two.....

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    If the PSU has regulated voltage output, or LED brightness can vary
    with the supply voltage (such as from a battery), then a resistor
    would do instead of the LED drivers.

    Yes, and you still have the same potential for a possible "fail short"
    with a current limiting resistor, which would then drive that led with
    too much current. And if it happens to fail short when overdriven too
    much, you are back to your 'fail short' for the "drivers".

    You can get "fusible resistors" that are supposed to fail
    open-circuit if overloaded.

    I'd expect the drive circuitry and wiring to be as common a point of
    failure as the LEDs themselves. To detect
    open-circuit/short-circuit, you could pass a small current through
    them and use that to tell whether the LED is OK (current is correct
    for the LED's forward voltage drop specification), triggering a
    single bulb-failure warning if it's not (possibly simpler in practice
    than duplicating every LED on a display panel, even if the total
    number of components is similar).

    Yes, you could design a "detector" that could detect open/short for the
    LED and/or its driver. But then that means you've excluded "fewest
    parts" (at least) from the design selection criteria. And, depending
    upon how 'robust' you really need to be, you'd need to detect failures
    of the detection circuitry itself as well.

    Depends on the details. Say you have flashing warning lights
    driven by a microcontroller which also has spare remapable ADC
    inputs: You could add a capacitor in parallel with the LED+resistor
    and switch the micro's pin from HIGH digital output into ADC input
    mode to turn the LED off. While the light fades from on to off,
    measure the discharge of the capacitor - too fast means a short,
    too slow means open-circuit. Yet there's only one more component
    per LED if you already have a suitably capable microcontroller
    there.

    For traffic lights to look normal, you could flash so quickly that
    it's not noticable to the eye (if you've got surplus brightness).

    Now the problem is that capacitors tend to fail short-circuit more
    often than most other common components including LEDs. So you can
    detect the failure, but the failure is now more likely.

    Another commenter's statement of inverting the indicator, where "on"
    means "situation normal" and "off" means "abnormal" is probably the
    absolute simplest way to go. But then the "LED indicator" fights human psychology that senses a new stimuli appearing in the environment (lamp turning on) far more readily and quickly than noticing that a continual
    low level stimuli has disappeared (light has gone out).

    Flashing to indicate a warning instead of turning permanently off
    would help there. Need to retrain everyone to use traffic lights
    which always have two lights on if applied to that example
    application though, so probably not a solution there.

    --
    __ __
    #_ < |\| |< _#

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to Bernd Froehlich on Wed Nov 27 00:20:56 2024
    On 11/26/24 4:00 AM, Bernd Froehlich wrote:
    On 26. Nov 2024 at 08:24:12 CET, "186283@ud0s4.net" <186283@ud0s4.net>
    wrote:

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO
    fail - but for some safety apps you can't
    just HAVE things go black.

    Hmm, just a thought:
    If I understood the problem correctly, you want the LED to show some failstate, right?

    What if you switch the LED on when everything is fine and off would signal
    a fail?

    If the LED is off then you know it´s either a fail or the LED is broken. Either way you have to do something.

    The fail state can (usually) be detected just past the
    current-limiting resistor. If the voltage there suddenly
    equals the supply voltage then the LED is not conducting.
    Again though, more electronics.

    COULD use that elevated voltage to trip a 'relay' trans
    connected to LED-2 however.

    For some apps, you may just be able to look and SEE which
    LED is illuminated. If you normally light the right-side
    one, but peeking in shows the left-side one lit, then
    you have a problem.

    The original LED traffic lights used a cluster of LEDs,
    divided into individually-driven segments. If one failed
    then only a segment went dark, but MOST of them would
    keep working. It was always the greens that went bad.
    TODAY, not sure - I fear they use some more monolithic
    device that'll die all at once.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to Rich on Wed Nov 27 00:36:40 2024
    On 11/26/24 8:34 AM, Rich wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Consider traffic lights, warning lights, similar.

    It's not as simple as dividing the drive current in half because LED
    brightness is not strictly linear to the current.

    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Agreed ... but it's extremely COMMON to voltage or PWM them.
    Minimum parts count. For arg here, assume like a 12v or 24v
    source with way more amp capacity than you need. Minimum setup
    is the LED and a current-limiting resistor.

    Searches really don't bring up much here.

    Yea, there are more complex solutions ... but what can be done with
    the fewest, simplest, most robust parts ?

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two....

    Wow - TWO ! :-)

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate, because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Yep - except for a couple of things. First off, brightness
    goes down by 50% when an LED dies. In outdoor apps you may
    not even be able to see it clearly. Second, you're burning
    both LEDs - meaning LED-2 may also be near fail-time.

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    Not strictly Linux, but we DO sometimes wanna drive external
    displays. Usenet electronics groups ... dismal at this point.

    LEDs are great, but never "forever". They DO fail - but for some
    safety apps you can't just HAVE things go black.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find they
    do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will need
    more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.


    Derating is most wise. Even the recommended power levels
    are often 'optimistic'. Of course if you derate then you
    have to use bigger/more LEDs. Also, LEDs can Just Die for
    no immediately obvious reason - bad manufacturing or
    maybe a nearby lightning hit. MTBF is a "mean" after all.


    [1] redundant PSU's are a different matter

    [2] And they are being driven hard because the Shenzen engineer
    optimized for lowest BOM cost posible without regard to lifespan of the device.

    The simplest thing I can think of starts off with just
    the current-limiting resistor and the LED. If the LED
    is working properly the voltage at its + terminal will
    be rather low, the LED is sucking-up most of the power.
    If you bias an FET and attach it to said + terminal then
    so long as the voltage there is low the FET won't turn on.
    If the LED dies then the high voltage will turn on the
    FET - which is attached to LED-2. COULD latch the FET
    so it fer-sure goes to 100%

    HAVE seen an LED or two fail mostly as a dead short ...
    but almost never.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rich@21:1/5 to 186282@ud0s4.net on Wed Nov 27 06:47:32 2024
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    On 11/26/24 8:34 AM, Rich wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Consider traffic lights, warning lights, similar.

    It's not as simple as dividing the drive current in half because LED
    brightness is not strictly linear to the current.

    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Agreed ... but it's extremely COMMON to voltage or PWM them.

    And because all the other Lemmings are walking off the cliff, that
    means you should too?

    You asked for 'robust' (albeit in combination with other factors).
    Constant current drive will provide the most robust (from an LED
    failure standpoint, but adding constant current drive brings in
    'robustness' for the driver).

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source >> (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate,
    because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Yep - except for a couple of things. First off, brightness
    goes down by 50% when an LED dies. In outdoor apps you may
    not even be able to see it clearly. Second, you're burning
    both LEDs - meaning LED-2 may also be near fail-time.

    No different than if you resistor limited or pwm'ed both. If both are
    lit at the same time, and one fails (and its failure does not take out
    the other) you get 50% reduction in brightness.

    Now, if you meant #2 was an idle spare waiting for #1 to fail before
    turning on, well, then in that case, assuming the 'detection and
    failover' circuit operated properly, no drop in brightness, and no
    operating age on #2. Which you want is dependent on /what/ you really
    want, and your initial post is ambigious enough that either of "run both,
    but keep one going if the other fails" or "hold an idle spare off, turn
    it on if main goes out" can fit the description.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find
    they do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will
    need more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.


    Derating is most wise. Even the recommended power levels are often
    'optimistic'.

    Yes, even the value in the datasheet (assuming a part for which you can
    get a datasheet, and that includes 'recommended operating values' is
    often optimistic. Esp. for white LED's used for general illumination.

    Of course if you derate then you have to use bigger/more LEDs.

    It is very hard to have your cake and eat it too. You can have few
    parts (i.e. Shenzen like cheapo designs) but you very likely won't be
    terribly obust against failure. Or you can add more parts for more
    robustness and longer lifespan, but then you won't have fewer parts.

    Also, LEDs can Just Die for no immediately obvious reason - bad
    manufacturing or maybe a nearby lightning hit. MTBF is a "mean"
    after all.

    True, and if the device takes a lightning hit (or nearby one) it is
    likely going to fail. But you'll find if you derate a fair amount (and
    provide proper adequate cooling) that once you shake out the infant
    mortality portion of the bathtub curve, that the ones that make it past infantcy will run a very long time afterward.

    [1] redundant PSU's are a different matter

    [2] And they are being driven hard because the Shenzen engineer
    optimized for lowest BOM cost posible without regard to lifespan of
    the device.

    The simplest thing I can think of starts off with just
    the current-limiting resistor and the LED. If the LED
    is working properly the voltage at its + terminal will
    be rather low,

    More correctly, it will be whatever the LED's forward voltage drop
    value is, which is different depending what "color" LED is being used.

    But "low" is relative, and depends upon supply voltage. Some LED's
    have forward voltage drops of 2.5v or 3v. On a 3.3v supply, 2.5v and
    3v are not at all "low".

    the LED is sucking-up most of the power. If you bias an FET and
    attach it to said + terminal then so long as the voltage there is
    low the FET won't turn on. If the LED dies then the high voltage
    will turn on the FET - which is attached to LED-2. COULD latch the
    FET so it fer-sure goes to 100%

    Yeah, you could setup a suitably biased FET to turn on if the voltage
    across the LED goes too high -- indicating an open in the LED. That
    won't catch an LED that fails short however. So you'd only catch half
    the possible failure modes. Provided you know your LED's always fail
    open, it would work. But do you know they always fail open?

    HAVE seen an LED or two fail mostly as a dead short ... but almost
    never.

    Diodes failing short do occur (think bridge rectifier diodes that do
    sometimes fail short). Granted, they are different "chip dopings" than
    LED's, but an LED is just a 'special diode'. There's no guarantee a
    given LED will always fail open. It may be only 1% that fail short,
    but if you are talking sufficient numbers of units even 1% becomes a
    rather large physical count.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to Rich on Wed Nov 27 23:47:36 2024
    On 11/27/24 1:47 AM, Rich wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    On 11/26/24 8:34 AM, Rich wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    Critical Redundancy - One LED fails, another takes over ?

    Consider traffic lights, warning lights, similar.

    It's not as simple as dividing the drive current in half because LED
    brightness is not strictly linear to the current.

    LED's are, at a low level, 'current' responsive lights. Driving them
    with a current source is the best way to drive them.

    Agreed ... but it's extremely COMMON to voltage or PWM them.

    And because all the other Lemmings are walking off the cliff, that
    means you should too?


    Depends on the cost/benefit ratio :-)

    If you can get the Desired Effect with two parts, or 20,
    which do you choose ? That last one-percent of 'perfection'
    may NOT be worth it.

    It has been said of good automobiles that the Germans
    achieve 'perfection' through deep complexity whereas
    the Japanese achieve it through simplicity - reducing
    things to their most basic elements.

    It's why RAM chips don't cost $10,000 .....

    You asked for 'robust' (albeit in combination with other factors).
    Constant current drive will provide the most robust (from an LED
    failure standpoint, but adding constant current drive brings in
    'robustness' for the driver).

    The simplest (if you can assume the upstream power supply will be
    functional [1]) is to drive each in parallel with their own current source >>> (fixed current driver). I.e.:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+

    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate,
    because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Yep - except for a couple of things. First off, brightness
    goes down by 50% when an LED dies. In outdoor apps you may
    not even be able to see it clearly. Second, you're burning
    both LEDs - meaning LED-2 may also be near fail-time.

    No different than if you resistor limited or pwm'ed both. If both are
    lit at the same time, and one fails (and its failure does not take out
    the other) you get 50% reduction in brightness.

    My worry is that 50% less - in bright daylight - may
    equate to "invisible". Not every bit of tech functions
    in some darkened lab corner .....

    Now, if you meant #2 was an idle spare waiting for #1 to fail before
    turning on, well, then in that case, assuming the 'detection and
    failover' circuit operated properly, no drop in brightness, and no
    operating age on #2. Which you want is dependent on /what/ you really
    want, and your initial post is ambigious enough that either of "run both,
    but keep one going if the other fails" or "hold an idle spare off, turn
    it on if main goes out" can fit the description.

    Most LED's that fail do so because they are being driven hard [2]
    (right at the limits that they are rated for, if not well beyond
    sometimes). If you derate your drive by a fair amount you'll find
    they do, in fact, appear to last nearly forever. But then you will
    need more LED's for an equivalent amount of lumens of light output.


    Derating is most wise. Even the recommended power levels are often
    'optimistic'.

    Yes, even the value in the datasheet (assuming a part for which you can
    get a datasheet, and that includes 'recommended operating values' is
    often optimistic. Esp. for white LED's used for general illumination.


    Yep, decidedly noticed THAT.


    Of course if you derate then you have to use bigger/more LEDs.

    It is very hard to have your cake and eat it too. You can have few
    parts (i.e. Shenzen like cheapo designs) but you very likely won't be terribly obust against failure. Or you can add more parts for more robustness and longer lifespan, but then you won't have fewer parts.


    But I want my cake !!!


    Also, LEDs can Just Die for no immediately obvious reason - bad
    manufacturing or maybe a nearby lightning hit. MTBF is a "mean"
    after all.

    True, and if the device takes a lightning hit (or nearby one) it is
    likely going to fail. But you'll find if you derate a fair amount (and provide proper adequate cooling) that once you shake out the infant
    mortality portion of the bathtub curve, that the ones that make it past infantcy will run a very long time afterward.

    I've seen electronics ruined by a NEARBY lightning
    hit, one that went overhead, never touched the
    building or power grid. Pure EMP.

    Such effects CAN sometimes be moderated by using nothing
    but a zener ... the amps are ultra-small, it's the volts
    that kill the semiconductors.

    [1] redundant PSU's are a different matter

    [2] And they are being driven hard because the Shenzen engineer
    optimized for lowest BOM cost posible without regard to lifespan of
    the device.

    The simplest thing I can think of starts off with just
    the current-limiting resistor and the LED. If the LED
    is working properly the voltage at its + terminal will
    be rather low,

    More correctly, it will be whatever the LED's forward voltage drop
    value is, which is different depending what "color" LED is being used.

    Yep.

    But "low" is relative, and depends upon supply voltage. Some LED's
    have forward voltage drops of 2.5v or 3v. On a 3.3v supply, 2.5v and
    3v are not at all "low".

    Well, gotta do SOME calx :-)

    the LED is sucking-up most of the power. If you bias an FET and
    attach it to said + terminal then so long as the voltage there is
    low the FET won't turn on. If the LED dies then the high voltage
    will turn on the FET - which is attached to LED-2. COULD latch the
    FET so it fer-sure goes to 100%

    Yeah, you could setup a suitably biased FET to turn on if the voltage
    across the LED goes too high -- indicating an open in the LED. That
    won't catch an LED that fails short however. So you'd only catch half
    the possible failure modes. Provided you know your LED's always fail
    open, it would work. But do you know they always fail open?

    HAVE seen an LED or two fail mostly as a dead short ... but almost
    never.

    Diodes failing short do occur (think bridge rectifier diodes that do sometimes fail short). Granted, they are different "chip dopings" than LED's, but an LED is just a 'special diode'. There's no guarantee a
    given LED will always fail open. It may be only 1% that fail short,
    but if you are talking sufficient numbers of units even 1% becomes a
    rather large physical count.

    IMHO here, you design for the "most likely" cases and
    trust to luck. Not "ideal", but simple and inexpensive.

    Now, say, indicators and such in a nuke plant ... then
    you have to cover both cases. In our examples here you'd
    want the abovedescribed fix, but with an n and p FET
    that both feed LED-2. Fails open, the n-channel, fails
    closed, the p-channel.

    Together, you're making a "voltage-range error" detector
    and the indicator is LED-2.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to Computer Nerd Kev on Thu Nov 28 03:11:02 2024
    On 11/27/24 12:12 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:
    Computer Nerd Kev <not@telling.you.invalid> wrote:
    Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

    PSU
    |
    +-------+-------+
    | |
    driver driver
    | |
    LED LED
    | |
    +-------+-------+
    |
    Gnd


    Then if one led (or its driver) fails, the other continues to operate, >>>> because it does not depend upon the first one.

    Unless the driver chip fails short-circuit, causing the PSU to shut
    down power to both drivers.

    fewest, simplest, most robust -- you get to pick two.....

    But this is far from 'fewest' parts, as you need one driver per led.
    While some driver chips can be had for pennies each in 1K quantities,
    that still adds to the BOM cost in the end.

    If the PSU has regulated voltage output, or LED brightness can vary
    with the supply voltage (such as from a battery), then a resistor
    would do instead of the LED drivers.

    Yes, and you still have the same potential for a possible "fail short"
    with a current limiting resistor, which would then drive that led with
    too much current. And if it happens to fail short when overdriven too
    much, you are back to your 'fail short' for the "drivers".

    You can get "fusible resistors" that are supposed to fail
    open-circuit if overloaded.

    I'd expect the drive circuitry and wiring to be as common a point of
    failure as the LEDs themselves. To detect
    open-circuit/short-circuit, you could pass a small current through
    them and use that to tell whether the LED is OK (current is correct
    for the LED's forward voltage drop specification), triggering a
    single bulb-failure warning if it's not (possibly simpler in practice
    than duplicating every LED on a display panel, even if the total
    number of components is similar).

    Yes, you could design a "detector" that could detect open/short for the
    LED and/or its driver. But then that means you've excluded "fewest
    parts" (at least) from the design selection criteria. And, depending
    upon how 'robust' you really need to be, you'd need to detect failures
    of the detection circuitry itself as well.

    Depends on the details. Say you have flashing warning lights
    driven by a microcontroller which also has spare remapable ADC
    inputs: You could add a capacitor in parallel with the LED+resistor
    and switch the micro's pin from HIGH digital output into ADC input
    mode to turn the LED off. While the light fades from on to off,
    measure the discharge of the capacitor - too fast means a short,
    too slow means open-circuit. Yet there's only one more component
    per LED if you already have a suitably capable microcontroller
    there.

    For traffic lights to look normal, you could flash so quickly that
    it's not noticable to the eye (if you've got surplus brightness).

    Now the problem is that capacitors tend to fail short-circuit more
    often than most other common components including LEDs. So you can
    detect the failure, but the failure is now more likely.

    Another commenter's statement of inverting the indicator, where "on"
    means "situation normal" and "off" means "abnormal" is probably the
    absolute simplest way to go. But then the "LED indicator" fights human
    psychology that senses a new stimuli appearing in the environment (lamp
    turning on) far more readily and quickly than noticing that a continual
    low level stimuli has disappeared (light has gone out).

    Flashing to indicate a warning instead of turning permanently off
    would help there. Need to retrain everyone to use traffic lights
    which always have two lights on if applied to that example
    application though, so probably not a solution there.


    There are 'critical' lights - traffic, railway, nuke-reactor -
    that simply can't show "nothing". If those lights are outdoors
    then half-bright may look like "nothing".

    For the original question, I think using two FETs, an N
    and P, linked to the + on LED-1 can form a "voltage-range
    error" circuit without too many parts. LED-2 is the
    indicator lamp. So, whether LED-1 fails open or closed
    LED-2 still lights full. Attach an extra tiny red led
    or piezo buzzer or whatever to it to indicate fail mode
    if you can't just tell by looking.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Computer Nerd Kev@21:1/5 to 186282@ud0s4.net on Fri Nov 29 07:06:45 2024
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    On 11/27/24 12:12 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
    Depends on the details. Say you have flashing warning lights
    driven by a microcontroller which also has spare remapable ADC
    inputs: You could add a capacitor in parallel with the LED+resistor
    and switch the micro's pin from HIGH digital output into ADC input
    mode to turn the LED off. While the light fades from on to off,
    measure the discharge of the capacitor - too fast means a short,
    too slow means open-circuit. Yet there's only one more component
    per LED if you already have a suitably capable microcontroller
    there.

    For traffic lights to look normal, you could flash so quickly that
    it's not noticable to the eye (if you've got surplus brightness).

    Now the problem is that capacitors tend to fail short-circuit more
    often than most other common components including LEDs. So you can
    detect the failure, but the failure is now more likely.

    Another commenter's statement of inverting the indicator, where "on"
    means "situation normal" and "off" means "abnormal" is probably the
    absolute simplest way to go. But then the "LED indicator" fights human
    psychology that senses a new stimuli appearing in the environment (lamp
    turning on) far more readily and quickly than noticing that a continual
    low level stimuli has disappeared (light has gone out).

    Flashing to indicate a warning instead of turning permanently off
    would help there. Need to retrain everyone to use traffic lights
    which always have two lights on if applied to that example
    application though, so probably not a solution there.


    There are 'critical' lights - traffic, railway, nuke-reactor -
    that simply can't show "nothing".

    I haven't been let into a reactor control room, but I'm pretty sure
    I've caught traffic lights showing nothing during a blackout
    before (and ample other times for that matter). The individual
    traffic light units usually have redundancy by there being more
    than one of them, in Australia at least. You just need a method
    for detecting the failure and reporting it so it's fixed as soon
    as possible.

    I'm not sure what railway crossing lights do, as off is their
    normal state. I assume they die too during a blackout and I
    therefore slow sufficiently to be able to stop if I see a train
    coming as I check both ways before crossing. Where there's little
    space to see before reaching the line, sufficient slowing down can
    annoy drivers behind. But tough luck to them, I won't trust my
    life to a light, especially as I heard relatively recently that a
    nearly railway line was closed after multiple crossing lights
    failed to activate.

    For the original question, I think using two FETs, an N
    and P, linked to the + on LED-1 can form a "voltage-range
    error" circuit without too many parts. LED-2 is the
    indicator lamp. So, whether LED-1 fails open or closed
    LED-2 still lights full. Attach an extra tiny red led
    or piezo buzzer or whatever to it to indicate fail mode
    if you can't just tell by looking.

    Well since you're defining "too many parts", one can't argue
    with that. This topic is really too general for a universal
    minimum-parts solution. The over-priced indicator lights on a
    nuclear reactor control panel probably cost much more individually
    than an excessive bunch of redundant components to drive them all.

    Though at Fukushima they were apparantly powering instruments with
    car batteries when the building lost power, so redundancy only went
    so far there. I thinkI remember the movie The China Syndrome showed
    a fictional nuclear incident happening because a panel meter needle
    was stuck.

    --
    __ __
    #_ < |\| |< _#

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From 186283@ud0s4.net@21:1/5 to Computer Nerd Kev on Fri Nov 29 05:53:17 2024
    On 11/28/24 4:06 PM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
    186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:
    On 11/27/24 12:12 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
    Depends on the details. Say you have flashing warning lights
    driven by a microcontroller which also has spare remapable ADC
    inputs: You could add a capacitor in parallel with the LED+resistor
    and switch the micro's pin from HIGH digital output into ADC input
    mode to turn the LED off. While the light fades from on to off,
    measure the discharge of the capacitor - too fast means a short,
    too slow means open-circuit. Yet there's only one more component
    per LED if you already have a suitably capable microcontroller
    there.

    For traffic lights to look normal, you could flash so quickly that
    it's not noticable to the eye (if you've got surplus brightness).

    Now the problem is that capacitors tend to fail short-circuit more
    often than most other common components including LEDs. So you can
    detect the failure, but the failure is now more likely.

    Another commenter's statement of inverting the indicator, where "on"
    means "situation normal" and "off" means "abnormal" is probably the
    absolute simplest way to go. But then the "LED indicator" fights human >>>> psychology that senses a new stimuli appearing in the environment (lamp >>>> turning on) far more readily and quickly than noticing that a continual >>>> low level stimuli has disappeared (light has gone out).

    Flashing to indicate a warning instead of turning permanently off
    would help there. Need to retrain everyone to use traffic lights
    which always have two lights on if applied to that example
    application though, so probably not a solution there.


    There are 'critical' lights - traffic, railway, nuke-reactor -
    that simply can't show "nothing".

    I haven't been let into a reactor control room, but I'm pretty sure
    I've caught traffic lights showing nothing during a blackout
    before (and ample other times for that matter). The individual
    traffic light units usually have redundancy by there being more
    than one of them, in Australia at least. You just need a method
    for detecting the failure and reporting it so it's fixed as soon
    as possible.

    I'm not sure what railway crossing lights do, as off is their
    normal state. I assume they die too during a blackout and I
    therefore slow sufficiently to be able to stop if I see a train
    coming as I check both ways before crossing. Where there's little
    space to see before reaching the line, sufficient slowing down can
    annoy drivers behind. But tough luck to them, I won't trust my
    life to a light, especially as I heard relatively recently that a
    nearly railway line was closed after multiple crossing lights
    failed to activate.

    For the original question, I think using two FETs, an N
    and P, linked to the + on LED-1 can form a "voltage-range
    error" circuit without too many parts. LED-2 is the
    indicator lamp. So, whether LED-1 fails open or closed
    LED-2 still lights full. Attach an extra tiny red led
    or piezo buzzer or whatever to it to indicate fail mode
    if you can't just tell by looking.

    Well since you're defining "too many parts", one can't argue
    with that. This topic is really too general for a universal
    minimum-parts solution. The over-priced indicator lights on a
    nuclear reactor control panel probably cost much more individually
    than an excessive bunch of redundant components to drive them all.

    Well, the circuit I described doesn't use TOO many parts
    and they're all cheap as dirt. a couple FETs and some
    resistors by and large. You WILL get full brightness
    from LED-2 and will NOT be burning LED-2 unless needed.

    Anyway, visualizing The Problem as voltage-range-error
    detection seems the simplest approach. Doesn't need
    microcontrollers or current supplies or anything very
    complex.

    BlackOuts ... yea, they CAN happen (been through some
    lasting nearly three weeks). After a little while almost
    NO tech works - it's back to 1880. However decent design
    at least DOES ease everybody into that old paradigm.

    DO own a few kerosene/oil lamps and had to use them on
    two occasions over the past 20 years. Old tech DOES
    work ... just make sure they can't crash to the floor
    and start a big fire. Oddly, can't get the Net with
    them - what WERE they thinking ???

    Traffic lights - esp since the LED conversions - more
    and more DO have battery-backup that'll last for an
    hour or two. Maybe not cost-effective everywhere, but
    at major intersections ......

    Though at Fukushima they were apparantly powering instruments with
    car batteries when the building lost power, so redundancy only went
    so far there. I thinkI remember the movie The China Syndrome showed
    a fictional nuclear incident happening because a panel meter needle
    was stuck.

    As I suggested elsewhere, 'redundancy' can only go SO far.
    A tsunami/earthquake/melt-down ... kinda WAY off the spectrum.

    Oh, car batts are NOT so bad - cheap and work. Fair cap.
    Only maybe 2-3 year lifetime though.

    Ah, Fukushima ... reported last week ... they finally got
    a little robot in there - with a long 'fishing pole' probe
    on it - and recovered a few tiny bits of core material.
    Japan congratulated itself on that. Alas the radiation is
    still SO high that it nukes all modern tech, hence the
    'fishing pole'. Maybe they should look to vacuum tubes
    or something, crude RC ......

    There ARE 'cold-emitter array' valves these days which
    are pretty small - kinda leveraging microchip tech to
    make a mass of tiny 'points' that emit electrons. Then
    you mechanically overlay a grid and anode. Can't do
    TOO much logic/etc with those, but they would probably
    hold up in a hyper-rad environment.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)